What is loin rubbing and what causes it? Loin rubbing is a condition where the hair is rubbed off or individual hairs are broken off over the horse’s back. Friction rubbing is a similar condition occurring from the shoulders along the back to the loins. As with "scrub marks", these conditions can make the horse sensitive. You also may see white or roaning hair associated with this. Rubbing is caused by constant rubbing, brushing, or movement, which can occur from any of the following conditions.

1) The Sloshing Saddle. A long strung-out walk ridden for more than a few hours is harder on a horse’s back than any other type of riding. The saddle may move forward and back 2 inches or more with every stride! It’s easy to see how this can cause sensitivity all over the back, but it’s usually most noticeable over the loins at the rear of the panels or skirts of the saddle. The sloshing saddle syndrome is accentuated by a loose girth. All that’s necessary to correct the problem is a little natural collection, contact with the bit, and enough leg contact that your horse knows he should ‘look alive’ and step under himself enough to bring his back up. Using a breast collar and crupper also will help this problem. Your horse’s conformation and way of going may be hard to change, and if you have done all that you can do to stop the sloshing saddle with no significant change, you will need to purchase a Tacky Tack pad. The properties and design of this pad help alleviate this condition or even eliminate it altogether. To use this pad alone or as an under pad, make sure that you pull it up between your saddle’s panels so you don’t bind your horse’s spine.

2) Lack of Saddle Contact in the Rear. When you stand in the stirrups over long distances, particularly if you brace yourself on the pommel or fork, the saddle’s arch or fork locks into the horse’s shoulders. This usually pinches the trapezius muscle and the horse will drop his back. At the same time the rear of the saddle pops up. When the horse hollows his back he stops using it correctly and he will begin to do a swinging ‘cha-cha-cha’ with his hindquarters. The added weight of the rider concentrated over the forehand of the horse causes him to overbalance forward producing the "power trot" many distance riders are so proud of. As with the long swinging walk, the horse is strung out and uncollected. The hindquarters shift dramatically under the saddle, quickly causing friction and soreness. The answer, of course, is to sit down. Learn to half-post and ask for moderate amount of natural collection at all times, and if your saddle has the adjustable rigging, try tightening down the rear strap.

3) Upward Swoop to the Croup or a Swayback. Some horses have loins that swoop upward toward the croup more than average. This type of confirmation is often seen in lines of Quarter horses that have been bred to be rump-high and have a downhill slope to their backs. The skirts of western saddles often run into the loins of horses with this downhill conformation. Traditionally, western saddle skirts are laced together in the rear. The rear of the saddle saws back and forth with each stride, instead of moving with the horse. These laces also can create enough pressure to bruise the spinal processes beneath them, causing a very painful bump on the top of the spine. This bruising is serious because once the spine has been bruised, any pressure at a later time will cause the injury to flare up quickly, as attested by anyone who has injured a horse with a harness. Therefore, on traditional saddles used for training, trail and pleasure, the lacing between the skirts should be removed to allow the saddle to move up and down alternately as the horse’s loins shift, to remove the pressure. One solution may be to try a shorter saddle or a round-skirted saddle. On flexible panel saddles, rear shims set in about 1 to 1 ½ inches from the rear edge of the saddle might help; a fleece wool pad could help as well. If you have a saddle with the adjustable System IV, raise the front of your saddle so that you are level with the croup/loins. You also might have panels that are too long and curve up so far that they actually touch or "bottom out on" the rear of the saddle tree. It this is the case, you might be able to solve the problem by using rear shims. If that doesn’t work, you will need to change saddles. Also if your mount is sway- backed, you will need to add center shims, bringing up the center and allowing the panel ends to move freely.

4) Biannual Coat change. When a horse sheds, the hair comes off more rapidly in areas that are being rubbed. This is why people complain of loin rubbing in the spring, and notice that it mysteriously goes away by early summer. This type of rubbing usually has no sores connected with it. Any rubbing that occurs during seasonal coat change is magnified. According to one respected English saddler, every Spring he and his colleagues are besieged by complaints about ill-fitting saddles. The annual coat change causes extra skin sensitivity in many horses. One well-known German dressage competitor rests his horses during their coat change in spring and fall, believing that shedding requires energy. Unfortunately, the early spring is just when endurance and competitive trail riders are asking the most of their horses. If an incorrect riding stance or other rubbing factors are added to the mix, real soreness results. I have also found that by using COWBOY MAGIC applied ONLY on the rub area makes and allows for the pad to slide as if on oil across this area thus actually alleviating or even eliminating this condition.  PLEASE only apply this product to this area, for if it goes off the target area you and your saddle will SIDE off your horse.

5) An Ill-Fitting Breast Collar or Crupper. To properly fit the breast collar, adjust the breast collar so it can pulled it away from the horse’s shoulder on one side 3-4 inches. This allows the animals shoulder to move freely forward. Use the neck tug (the strap that goes over the horses withers) to adjust the height of the "arms" that lie along the shoulder slope, offering a comfortable fit and maximum support. These arms come together in the center of the chest and are connected to the center strap that connects the breast collar to the to the girth, between the horses front legs. This center strap will keep the breast collar from moving up and choking the horse and will allow your horse to eat and drink comfortably. Corectly fit, the strap should hang no more than 1 to 2 inches when the horse is standing. To properly adjust the crupper, fit it on a standing animal, adjusting it so you can rise it off the animals rump 3-4 inches.

6) A Pad that Binds the Horse’s Spine or Shoulders. To properly fit a saddle pad you must bring the pad up off of the horse’s spine, especially in the withers area, so that when you are sitting in the saddle you can easily slip 2 fingers between the saddles pad and the animal’s spine.

7) Scrub or Rub Marks on the Shoulders. More often than not, these marks are caused by the saddle being too far forward. Move the saddle back a bit.

I have white and or roaning hair under my flexible panel saddle, what do I check for? White hair means that the hair follicle has been compromised. Review the question on loin rubbing on this page. For other potential causes, check the following:

The white hair my horse had I had before I bought an AM-F saddle went away during the summer with my new saddle, then came back in the fall, in the same pattern as before, why? Although rare, this can happen. When you see white hair, it simply means that the melanin producing cells in the hair follicle have been shut down. As you know, this may or may not be permanent. With animals that have a hair coat, hair follicles are not all the same. With horses, different hair follicles are active during different times of the year and are stimulated by hormones that are triggered by temperature and the length of daylight. Some hair follicles produce longer guard hairs, some produce a softer downy undercoat and some are in-between. Therefore, when you "irritated" that particular hair follicle during its "active period", will determine if it was permanently damaged or not. What you are seeing is the "winter" hair follicles (for lack of a better word) being triggered into production by temperature and daylight, and those follicles were the ones that were damaged by your old saddle. Hopefully with each season this will get less and less.

What are the bumps I see on my horse, and what causes them? Two types of bumps seem to be related to tack. The first is edema; the second is hematoma.

How do you measure a horse’s back? Stand the horse square. Feel for the back edge of his shoulder blade. This is located near his withers and down off the side of the spine about 2 inches. Then measure from the back edge of his shoulder to his point of hip. From this measurement deduct 7 to 8 inches, 4 inches for the shoulder rotation and 3 to 4 inches surrounding the hip. This is your horse’s back length. Many saddle makers request this information and may take their measurements differently so let them know how you measured your horse’s back. Remember, when looking at the Delrin System 5, 7, 9 and 10 panel saddle, the panel can overlap the horses scapula up to 3 inches. They are designed this way; this is what makes this panel design unique. When looking for a saddle for a short-backed horse, deduct 4 inches from all the system 5, 7 9 and 10 panel saddles; that will give you the length that will work on your horse’s back for a square skirted saddle. For example, if a Delrin panel saddle is 23 inches long, deduct 4 inches, giving you a 19-inch length for a saddle to fit on a horse’s back. If the saddle is still too long, you will need to select a contoured-skirted saddle in order to give the necessary clearance. Some manufacturers automatically deduct 4-6 inches in their literature when the panels actually are 4 to 6 inches longer.

I have been visiting your website and have found it very interesting. I am convinced that my saddle doesn't fit correctly. The part I really don't like about it is when it’s placed on his back it's twisted. I feel twisted when I ride in it also. The guy fitting the saddle thinks it fits but doesn't see the twisting like I do. One side fits great the other side doesn't even look like it’s his saddle. It must be because he is asymmetrical and if so, how do they get this way? Just like us, about 10% of the horses are right or left sided and canter using one lead so predominately, that it affects their conformation. Even the size and shape of the foot may be different when comparing the two front feet. The horse may also not flex his neck as well to the larger side. At a canter they may not like taking the lead on the weaker/smaller side. They may not like to canter in a round pen/on a longe-line the direction that requires them to use the weaker/smaller side, and may counter- canter as a result. You may also have difficulty posting off of the weaker side.

Having a saddle that is NOT fitted for each side of the horse will cause discomfort and may continue to make the situation worse. Therefore you must have a saddle that properly fits and one which will allow your horse’s shape to change. To start changing his shape, you must begin by exercising the weaker side. At the trot, post off of the weaker diagonal, do not allow the horse to counter-canter and encourage him to pick-up the correct lead. (If he can not hold that lead very long, even if it is for only a few strides, then that is fine, at least you gotten that far and can build later off of that.) Also under saddle, try to get him to pick up the lead on the weaker side and ride the canter heavily-with your seat. Lastly get the correct trimming on the foot that is off and lower the heel.

Years ago, I had a 3-year-old horse with this same issue and by the end of the summer her front feet were the same size, as was her conformation from side to side. Before I started training and riding, her one foot was an entire shoe size larger. Ruby was also horribly different in the shoulder when viewed from the rear. So misshapen she was, I figure that NO WAY could this deformed horse ever get balanced. She bucked when I asked her for her correct lead at the canter (the weaker side) and she would not longe-at all, when asked to canter in the direction of her weaker side. So, all summer I posted and posted off of that weak side and built her up. Slowly she began to take the canter on the correct lead and hold it without objection. She HAD changed her shape completely. By end of the summer she was fantastic and to this day she is an incredible horse. I was very happy that I did not have any saddle issues for my saddle accommodated her comfortably as she was developing in all directions. Even though Ruby was a young horse with a pre-existing condition, older horses can also have an asymmetrical shape if the rider continues to only post off of one diagonal or only canters the horse using one lead. So the rider must be kept aware of their riding skills and that of their horse’s build.

What do the various different back shapes of a horse look like? Click here

My saddle is too tight over horse’s shoulders. If you find that your saddle is too tight over the shoulder/wither area, or slips forward when riding on level ground, you either have the saddle positioned too far forward or the rigging is not properly adjusted. To properly adjust the rigging you will need move the saddle back - causing the front edge of the panel to over-lap very slightly or not at all, over the back edge of the scapula. The System 5, 7, 9 and 10 panels are designed for this. Adjust the saddle’s rigging by letting it out (lengthening it), so that the girth moves forward into the heart girth area keeping the saddle in the correct position.

How can you tell if your horse has a sore back or is just being difficult? Does your horse not tolerate saddling, cinching or mounting, buck, run away, nip, sidestep, toss his head, rear when girthed, refuse jumps, stumble frequently, quit working mid-season, behave well for first portion of ride then act up, tack-up better on one side than the other? Is your horse hollow-backed or cold-backed, showing dry spots under a wet blanket, hard to catch? Does your horse travel downhill badly or have difficulty walking calmly? Does his gait appear uneven? These are just a few symptoms to indicate that your horse may be suffering from a sore back. To determine if your horse is sore you need to palpate. Use 5-10 pounds of pressure (use your bathroom scale to judge the amount of pressure). For further information on "how to palpate" go to (saddling basics)

I would like to have a copy of your work sheet - the one you use for the yearly horse’s vaccinations. Yes, here it is, just open up the link and print it off.  Form

I have high readings from saddle fitting scans, what does that mean? Is my horse really sore? The only way to determine if your horse truly is sore is by physical palpation. Any number of equipment readings or scans can register heat or pressure, but who’s to say those readings indicate that your equipment is soring or will sore your horse? Some people bruise easily; some do not, so remember those readings are just readings, supplying you with information. It is up to you to determine if those readings correlate to muscular or skeletal pain, injury, or lack of performance. The only way to determine if your horse is sore is to physically palpate the muscle tissue. Go to (saddling basic) to learn how to do this.

I am getting gall rubs from my neoprene tack. Why? There could be several reasons, but the reason that 90 percent of the cases is this: contrary to what you’ve been told, neoprene does wear out. The cheap stuff wears out very quickly in fact sometimes before it gets sold out of the shelves tack store! Check your neoprene tack for cracks; if it’s cracked, replace it. Check the "skin" of the neoprene. Neoprene has a surface that when wet is slippery; if this skin wears away you are left with a raw rubber surface that literally will wear a hole through your horse’s hide. If you purchase top-quality neoprene (and I do not mean the highest priced stuff), your tack will last many, many years. Now for the other 10 percent: the neoprene girth may be too bulky for your horse. As your horse’s leg passes by or over the girth, the thickness of the girth may be what is catching his skin. If this is the case, you need a thinner girth. Your girth may also be too wide for his armpit. If so, you can get a cutout or a contoured girth, or you can try adjusting your saddle’s rigging back. Your horse’s movement may also be to blame. Does he kick up sand and grit? Is the underside of your girth covered with sand when you take it off or is there is sand between it and the horse? This sand is abrasive and will contribute to wearing off of the neoprene’s "skin" as well as damaging your horse’s skin. Lastly, is your horse just getting chafed? There may be too much loose skin, heat and sweat, just like with our human rear ends- (I know - too much information here). You need to "lube-up". So try Preparation H, Destin Ointment (or any baby diaper rash ointment-but this gets gooey and is good for healing already damaged skin), or KY Jelly or Vaseline applied in the armpit area; it will do the trick.

After riding what rinse do you use? After we are done riding, we pull the saddles off the horses and hose them off – scrubbing the mud and dirt chunks off. Then we use a pail with water combined with a couple of cups - or more of white vinegar added and sponge them down. This softens the hair coat, offers mild bug protection while neutralizes the salty sweat.

Why do you put blankets on your horses when camping? We love blankets when camping for several reasons. The heavier blankets we use when the temperature drops into the low 40 and 30’s. The blankets keep the horses warm and when they lay down they do not get dirty from the manure or wet ground. The lighter blankets we use as coolers and during the summer months to keep the bugs/mosquitoes off and to keep them clean. (Somehow now matter how clean you keep the area under the picket/high line, some horses just love to poop / pee beneath themselves and wallow in it!). Both types of blankets keep the horses cleaner and will make the grooming job easier the next morning.

How do you adjust and fit a bit correctly? The width of a bit should allow a finger width on either side of the horse’s lips. The height of the bit in the mouth should be where the bit will make a wrinkle in the corner of the horse’s mouth. The bit should have a chin/lip strap or cavison/flash to hold the mouth shut – engaging the bit. The chin/lip strap should be adjusted so that you can slip one or two fingers under it and the horses chin grove. Always undo this strap when removing the bit form the horse’s mouth if not you will bang the bit against the horse’s teeth and cause him to rear or pull back. When testing new bits always have your old one handy and test new bits in a controlled area. To engage a horse mouth – get him on the bit, at a stop gather up the reins slowly in your hands – walking your hands up the reins until the horse takes one step back/raises head/or collects. This is the point where you are on the horses mouth communicating with him. Remember to check your horse's teeth yearly.

Should my horse be barefoot or have shoes? I get this question a lot. First, for all of those who say this is the only way to go, they are wrong, for it may work on some horses and not for others. Horses in the wild travel an average of 20-50 miles a day; they live in harsh and drier conditions than our domesticated (pet) horses. The time a stallion is able to acquire a harem of mares is about the age of 5. Stallions that survive to this age pass on their good feet genes, and if not are taken out of the genetic pool fairly young by natural selection. Horses in the wild are the products of this natural selection and only those with good feet survive to breeding age. Those with thin walls and soles or those who can not grow a foot fast enough do not keep up with the herd and are contributors to the food chain. Horses that survive, have feet like iron and grow FAST. Ask any ferrier that has worked on a mustang’s foot and they will tell you that taking a horse from that environment to a soft, lush, cushy pasture with no natural rocks, stones, gravel and sand to ware down the hoof, requires a weekly trim. We do not put down our horse "pets" that we love, breed, raise, and buy just because they have thin hoof walls or soft soles. Nor can we control the weather in where they live, (dry climates tend to have harder feet and cracks, wet climates softer feet and thrush.) Horse’s hoofs are much like our own fingernails-some of us have thick, thin, hard or soft nails – we are all different. We have to work with what we have. I have horses that have thick walls and soles that grow fast! If I put shoes on my little mare, she will be lame in 3 weeks with puffy tendons due to the strain of a long toe. She can grow a ¾ of inch of hoof that fast. So I leave her barefoot and can ride her in the roughest terrain completely barefoot. My other mare has good sole, but thin hoof walls. I cannot put a shoe on because the wall is just too thin and the nailing drives her nuts. When bare foot on pasture she is great, but on the gravel road she looks like I would look walking barefoot over sharp rocks, yeow! So I use the Boa horse boots on her and they are wonderful. I have other horses that have shoes on and they wear them well. (I have my horses hot shoed, which means that the iron shoe is heated, to give the metal extra strength and to make shoe last longer; however they are also more slippery. I hot shoe my horses because I wear out the keg shoes (those that are not heated), faster than my horses can grow enough hoof to put the new nails into). Yes, I ride that much. My horses’ feet vary widely, yet all of my horses are in the same environment receiving the same care and feed. The difference is in their genes. My horses have a soft pasture in the low areas that is moist – sometimes muddy – and then in the same pasture there are sandy/rocky hills where the horses go to stand catching a summer breeze. They have free walking over 20 acres of pasture. They have to walk though a low, muddy and always damp ditch (allowing moisture to be absorbed into the hoof), in order to get to the automatic water fountain which is located on a rough cement pad, under the lean-to and the huge squirrel cage fan. It is in this area during the heat of the day the horses hang out, stomping around, hardening and filing their feet. So when trying to decide to shoe, go barefoot or use horse boots, take in the facts, your environmental conditions, your horse’s genetic make-up, your activity level with your animal, where you are riding, availability of a good ferrier, and manage your hoses feet. On a closing note, the horse’s hoof is a pump for the horse’s leg, and must be allowed to expand and contract with each step. We always pull our shoes in the fall and leave the horses barefoot over the winter. The most growth on a hoof is in the spring and summer and it takes a complete year for a hoof to grow completely out. When trimming and looking at diet or environment changes you can look at the growth rings/lines on the horses hoof, tell a story.

Why do horses roll? Should I let my horse roll? Is it good for them? Rolling is good for your horse, let them roll. Horses’ roll to dry off, to itch-especially when shedding out, to remove biting bugs and after being ridden. They roll in water to get cool or in mud for a protective layer against biting insects. Horses’ roll to relieve internal distress,-rolling does not cause colic. They roll to give themselves a dust bath in summer and a snow bath in wither. It is wonderful for them! The only acceptation is if they are in kicking at their belles and are in severe abdominal distress –monitor their condition and consult your veterinarian.

What can I use to keep gnats out of my horses ears?  Wipe them out with Avon Skin so Soft oil.  It conditions the ear and repels gnats.

What do I look for when purchasing a horse? When looking for a horse review the following questions. Based on your answers the price of the horse will vary as with the age. When planning to purchase a horse, tell the seller of the horse that you want to see them load and unload the horse from a trailer, have them bring the horse in – catch it, groom and saddle it. Have them ride the horse first. Ask them to remove the saddle and ride the horse bare back – if they can, as well as ride the horse with just a halter. Then have them saddle the horse and let you ride -with a helmet and with covered stirrups or with toestoppers on. A good test to perform to see if the horse is a safe and secure horse is to kick him in the hind shin. To do this, as the horse is standing and you are milling about, lightly tap/kick with the toe of your boot the cannon bone on the rear hind leg. A calm, secure and steady horse – regardless of age, will not move or move very little. A horse that is not, will jump, stomp, kick back or become highly skittish. If the horse has passed the kick and riding test, now you can review the level of training the horse has had and what he has accomplished for his age. Let the price of the horse with the questions below be your guide when purchasing a companion or performance horse.

• What price do you put on your safety – your life?

• How old are you?

• What level of rider are you, beginner, intermediate, advanced?

• At what age did you start riding?

• Have you ridden bareback?

• How often do you ride?

• Do you train horses, yours and/or outside horses coming in?

• Are you a timid person?

• Are you afraid of getting hurt?

• What type of riding will you be doing?

I am confused about the names of the different gaits among the various gaited horse breeds, can you help me? Yes, Click here

My Horse is Colicing and /or Tying up. What is the difference and what do I do? After years of sitting back and keeping my mouth shut on this controversial topic I am coming forward and adding my two cents worth! Something that I witnesses in 2002 was the straw that broke the camel’s back for me. So, let us begin our lesson. Please note: I am not a veterinarian. I have a Bachelor of Science degree with honors in animal science, I have taken advanced courses in medical studies, and I am a certified Equine Sports Massage Therapist. I have over 30 years of field experience and have consulted countless veterinarians on this topic. The following are my field observations and personal opinions. Please consult your veterinarian for information about your individual animal’s care. Have him or her show you how to take your animal’s pulse and temperature, how to listen for bowel sounds, and how to test for capillary refill and dehydration. Knowing these vital signs will help you identify your horse’s condition. Remember your veterinarian could save your animal’s life. So get to know your vet well!

What is Colic: Colic is basically indigestion, abdominal pain, a bellyache. This intestinal distress, if not properly addressed, may lead to death.

What causes Colic? Ninety percent are caused by parasite infections, so worm your horses regularly. The other 10 percent are tied to feed consumption and exercise most are caused by changes in feed, so make your feed changes gradually over a 7 to 10 day period. Other factors that contribute to colic are as follows:

1.  Bad teeth may make it difficult for your horse to chew properly, so have his teeth floated once a year.

2.  Bolting food (eating too fast) or fine textured feed. Try putting softball-size rocks in the feeder to slow his pace down.

3.  Overfeeding, so do not overfeed.

4.  Moldy feed

5.  Lack of water, a 1000 pound animal drinks 9-15 gallons of water a day, and if working hard or if the temperature is over 80 ° F will drink 20 percent more, so make sure your horse has plenty of fresh water. In winter, supply cool - not cold - water. If the water temperature is near freezing, a horse will not drink enough.

6.  Constipation, sometimes caused by lack of water or lack of roughage.

7.  Excessive eating of bedding. If your animal has this condition and you have tried everything else, try using dried reed canary grass. It makes great bedding and they can eat it.

8.  Feeding too much too infrequently. Horses are grazing animals designed to eat small frequent meals. Feed horses at least twice a day.

9.  Feeding while horse is too hot (puffing) or before working hard. Wait 15 to 30 minutes for the horse to cool down to water or feed and 30 to 60 minutes after feeding before working hard.

10.  Old age.

11.  Stalled horses not getting enough water or exercise.

12.  Feeding horses on ground where the can ingest sand or small stones. (Sand colic).

13.  Wood chewing.

14.  Kidney colic (kidney stones) and foaling colic in mares.

What are the symptoms of colic? No fever, rapid pulse, sweating, marked pain, heavy breathing, refusing feed and water, kicking at belly, getting up and down frequently, standing in a stretched out "saw horse" position, rolling. With severe pain the horse will sweat and can go into shock; movements will be quite violent.

What are the forms of colic: The three forms of colic are flatulence or gas, torsion or twist and an obstruction. The symptoms and treatment are different for in each type.

3. Torsion or twist: Torsion colic is usually fatal. Symptoms include rapid pulse (100 to 120 per minute), continuous severe pain, rolling, sweating and shivers from the pain, no gut sounds, onset of shock-like symptoms or shock with violent movements. The onset is sudden. Treatment: Call your veterinarian, who will perform a rectal exam. Keep the horse walking, because thrashing can lead to a ruptured bowel and/or injury to the his head. The veterinarian will administer a sedative and meperidine or morphine IV to relieve serious pain. The veterinarian can help you determine if surgery is an option.

Average equine vital signs at rest: Pulse Rate: 36 to 57 beats per min. Rectal Temperature: 99.5 to 101.5 degrees Respiratory Rate: 12 to 20 breaths per minute Capillary refill: 2 seconds. Consult with your veterinarian for your animals individual rate.

 TACK RELATED Q's:

What is a saddle designed to do? A saddle is designed to distribute the rider’s weight over the largest surface area possible, and to offer the rider support.

Saddle Fitting? Important message to all saddle fitters, massage therapists and veterinarians. Do not just set the saddle on the horses back to determine fit, but cinch or girth it down tightly (remember to set the saddle bare on the horses back). Then check the saddle fit. Many saddles now use Delrin panels, gel or air, etc., that require a downward force to achieve fit which can only be done by cinching the saddle down tightly and/or having someone site in the saddle. You can then re-check fit by sliding your hand under the saddle, feeling just what the horse feels. You can then finalize your initial fitting with the rider in the saddle and the horse in motion. If the saddle requires a corrective pad in order to achieve a good fit, remember to shim away from pressure and to check the horse’s conformation prior to any saddle fitting. You do this by squaring the horse up and looking over his rump, viewing his shoulder and wither area.

How do you measure a saddle’s seat? For English saddles (including cutbacks): measure from the head pin to the center of the cantle, but this may not accurately portray the saddle’s seat size. Many saddles are now being sloped back at the front of the tree and will give you a false measurement of the actual seat area for the rider, so a smaller measurement will actually indicate a larger seat size. (Yes, the available seat area is actually bigger than the measurement.) For Western saddles (including endurance models with a fork): measure from the back of the fork to the center of the cantle. Many of these saddles are being constructed with soft swells for your thigh that cut back into the seat, so your measurement will be larger than your actual seat size.

On my (system V, VII, IX and X panels), the panels sit out a bit further than the saddletree itself in the front. You know, where the horse’s withers are. So where do I set my saddle on my horse’s back? The saddle is designed so that the soft Delrin panels can overlap the horse’s scapula by 1 to 3 inches. * Please Note* On some horses, with very long backs or a very steep shoulder slope, the saddle does not overlap the scapula at all, but when you place your saddle in the saddling "sweet spot" you are an inch or so behind the scapula. Not to worry, the soft flexible front edges of the Am-F panel will allow for your horse’s shoulder to move effortlessly under the panel without injury. You will however need to adjust the saddle’s rigging so your girth falls into your horse’s heart girth area (the correct location for the girth). To find the scapula, square your horse up so that his front legs are in line with each other. Then, by the withers and down from the spine 4 to 5 inches, palpate your horse’s shoulder, feeling for the point where the back edge of the scapula drops off into the back. Mark that area in your mind’s eye, then place the saddle so the panel overlaps the scapula by 1 to 3 inches (the higher figure if a western saddle) or not at all, depending on the horse’s length of back. The horse’s shoulders can now move freely under the panels. Remember a horse can have up to a 4-inch backward rotation of the scapula and with the advanced panel design, he is now free in his shoulder and back. A rigid-tree saddle does not move with the horse. Those saddles need to be set 3 to 4 inches (or a hand width) behind the horse’s scapula due to the fact that horses have a 3-4 inch shoulder extension with rotation backward. This fitting might work with an English saddle, because it has a shorter tree to begin with. But these saddles are not really practical if the rider needs a larger seat or if the horse has a short back and setting it that far back may also position the rider behind the horse’s center of gravity and the weight baring area. These panels allow a softer fit in the shoulder area; however you can achieve even a softer fit by tightening up the saddles rear rigging, which will pull the saddle down in the rear, freeing up the wither area slightly more. These incredible panels not only provide the "flair," the opening needed for free shoulder movement, but they can "twist" from the horse’s wither area to the flat of its back, yet still have the ability to curve down to "rocker" into the horse’s back, or go straight depending on the horse’s shape. The panels can do all that, while providing the maximum amount of surface area for distributing the rider’s weight on a moving object: your horse!

My saddle is bouncy. Can you help me? Several things can cause bounciness on a Delrin panel saddle. First, never, ever, use a girth that has elastic in it. The panels on these saddles have the right amount of spring and flex so the horse can move freely under them. If you use a girth that gives you more spring you will feel like one of those balls attached to an elastic string hitting the paddle. Second, the girth could be too loose. You need to "over tighten" the girth just a bit on the ground. Tighten just enough so that you cannot get your fingers under the girth. When you mount up, the saddle’s panels will mold into the horse’s back, loosening the girth. To see if the fit is right , have someone on the ground check it. If they can get their hand under the girth it is just right; if they can pull it away from the horse’s body more than an inch, it is too loose. If your saddle has a rear rigging, use it and tighten it down, so that when you are riding it will hang no more than one inch below the horse’s belly. Third, you could be using the wrong pad. Do not use a pad more than 1/2 inch thick. Do not use a neoprene or foam pad. These will just add more bulk, heat and more bounce. The Delrin panels have all the cushion and bounce you and your horse need. Any more and you will be "bouncing" all over the place. Fourth, if your saddle has adjustable rigging, check it, because you may need to tighten up the rear-rigging strap.

The adjustable system on the front mounts of my American-flex saddle does not stay where I adjust it. If you find that adjustment you desire does not stay in position, try applying a few drops of Loctite Blue® - found in any automotive store. To apply this, adjust the mount to its farthest outward position, wipe away any oily residue, then apply a few drops of "loctite blue" and reset the mount to the position desired. Remember that the rear of the saddle DOES NOT have the adjustable system. DO NOT even think of adjusting the rear. If you do, YOU WILL damage your saddle.

How do I properly fit a saddle to my horse’s back?  Go to: saddling basic

Do you sell used saddles? No, we do not sell used saddles, but post all brands of Delrin panel saddles that are for sale by their owners on our web site at no charge. Go to  trading post.

On my western saddle the fenders don’t swing very freely or I have a very long "neck" on the fender that interferes with my boot. What can I do? Western fenders are hung on the saddle tree, either over the saddle bar, through a slot in the bar, or on a hanger attached to the bar. The ideal attachment is to have the fender hung over the bar. This is the only way to have maximum strength and greater versatility in adjusting your fender for the length desired, providing the manufacturer has not riveted or laced the fender closed. To adjust the fender to the correct length, grab either side of the fender (front and back) and pull either down or up using opposite directions to rotate the fender on the saddle. This way you can achieve greater swing or less neck at the area above your stirrup.

In what order do I put my tack on, and in what order do I take it off? What I tell my students is this: 1) The saddle and cinch it on. 2) Rear or flank strap, if you have one. 3) Breast collar if you have one. 4) Crupper if you have one. 5) Bridle. I bridle last because if I have a problem in the saddling process, I have the horse by the halter and am not pulling with the bridle. Take the equipment off in almost the reverse order. 1) Bridle 2) Breast collar 3) Crupper 4) Rear strap 5) Girth (saddle).

I was told that I need to get a special saddle for my gaited horse. A "gaited horse saddle" do you have any? Oh my, I do get this question a lot. For starters, a gaited horse is NO DIFFERENT in conformation than a trotting horse. The ONLY difference is the timing of the footfalls. This timing is what we spend big money for, what gives us a smooth ride, and the reason why we ride gaited horses. To achieve this timing we do not want anything to impair the horse’s movement, affecting foot-falls. We need to have a saddle that will allow freedom of movement, especially in the shoulder area. This is why the System VII panels are so wonderful. These saddles are not only great for gaited horses, but for all horses! What the people who say that you need a gaited horse saddle are really trying to tell you, is that you need to have a saddle that does not interfere with the horse’s shoulder movement. Many "rigid tree-gaited horse saddles" are very short in length allowing the shoulder more room, but with a short tree comes excessive pressure. The saddle may also offer too much flair in the shoulder area, which can cause the saddle to ride on the horse’s spine! Yikes! So remember, regardless what horse you ride, make sure that they have complete freedom movement in order to perform to their potential.

How do I adjust the English leathers and use the coverlet on the am-f saddles? Here is the proper way to attach the stirrups and the closing of the leather with the coverlet. Notice that the tongue of the buckle is on the inside as is the tail of the leather. If you find that the "tail" is too long, you can cut off what you do not need. After the leather is adjusted to the proper length, slide the coverlet down over the buckle until it is completely hidden. (Photo to right shows process with the coverlet that still needs to be pulled down over the buckle). Click here for photo

What are those odd pieces of leather on western saddles up by the fork, the ones that have the horizontal and vertical splits in them? And for English saddles, what is that leather tab in the rear with holes in it? Good question. On the western saddles, those are the keepers for either your cinch or latigo strap. The keeper with the vertical slit, on the off side (the side you do not mount the horse from) is to hook your cinch when you are done riding. You buckle your girth into that piece of leather and it will hold the cinch up so does not drag when you are carrying the saddle. The other piece of leather with the horizontal slot, located on the near side (the side you mount up from), holds the tail of your latigo strap when you are done cinching up. Many English saddles have a leather tab with holes in it, on the "off side" toward the rear of the saddle. This is a girth keeper, used to attach the girth when putting your saddle away.

How do I properly cinch up my western saddle? Do I tie a latigo knot? You do not tie a latigo knot. That will create bulk under your leg and make a bulge against the horse’s side. Instead, take the latigo strap from the saddle, run it down through the D-ring on the cinch then back up through the D-ring on the saddle, then back down through the D-ring on the cinch. Then give your saddle a bit of a push to the off side (side you do not mount up from). Place your left hand on the horse’s side or shoulder area, then with your right hand pull the latigo strap hard, straight out towards your waist, pulling the cinch across the horse’s underside, not just up on one side (I use the example of a drawstring on your pants: If you just pull on one side, that side will pull on your waist harder, but if you pull out to the side and then around you will have a more even and comfortable fit). Some saddles will actually have latigo rigging on both sides, so that the pull will be exactly equal, but giving that saddle a bit of a shove to the off side will give you the same results as an even pull. Don’t tighten down the saddle yet. Look everything over and let the horse breathe. Now go back and tighten the saddle down. Pull up hard on the near side, then put the tongue of the cinch buckle in the hole of the latigo strap and pull backup on the latgio strap until the buckle is firmly in place. Next, thread the tail of the latigo through the slit in the latigo keeper located below the fork or swells of the saddle. The cinch should be tight, because, when you get on, it will loosen some. It’s a good idea to have someone on the ground check your cinch while you’re in the saddle. Your helper should be able to comfortably slide his hand under the cinch, but not pull it away more than an inch from the horse’s body. Remember too, when you ride in hot weather or on very long rides, your horse can lose up to 50 pounds of body weight in sweat, so check your girth. You will be amazed at how loose it can become.

Why do the buckles on my stirrup leathers move? If you are riding in a saddle that has biothane leathers with a cam buckle, and find that the buckle is riding up your leg (which will sore your leg terribly), you will need to reposition that buckle to the other side of the stirrup. To do this, rotate the biothane leather (through the tree) so that you can place the stirrup on the other side of the buckle then rotate the biothane so that buckle is sitting on top of the stirrup. Then slide the coverlet over the buckle. This will solve your migrating buckle problem.

How do I perform a safety check on flexible panel system saddles? How often should I do this? You should perform a safety check twice a year. In the following procedures, you will be comparing one side of the saddle with the other. Turn your saddle over on its back. Take off any pads that the saddle may have on it.

1) First look at your panel spacing: If you have a System I, II, III, V, VI or the license- there should be at least 1 to 2 inches of space between the front panels (under the gullet area). If you have system VII, IX or X this spacing can be as little as a-half inch.

2) Next wiggle the panel on the front mounting, comparing the two sides. Do they wiggle the same? They should. Try pulling the panels away from the saddle. Do both move out the same? They should. During either of these tests, are the panels excessively loose? They should not be. Do the panels move freely during this procedure? They should.

3) Next check the back mounting pedestals. Do the same tests as for the front panels, but the rear panels should move more freely than the front, if your saddle has the System II, III, V, VI, or VII. The panel has a little slot that allows for this extra freedom. Is your panel moving freely in the slot? Can you pull on the center of your panel and see the panel sliding on the rear mount? The panels should slide freely.

4) If the panels are not adjusted correctly, that is, if one side is freer than the other, you will need to have your panels reset. I strongly (!!!!!!!) recommend that you send your saddle in to the nearest service representative to do this. However, if you must do it yourself, here is how you go about it. If you decide to "fix" your saddle yourself and mess it up, you may void your warranty. With that in mind, for all saddles except the System 4, 5, 7 9 and 10 panels, get a large Phillips screwdriver. For the System 4, 5, 7, 9 and 10  use the adjuster tool or an Allen key. Find the hole in the panel where the pedestal is located. Starting with the front mounts, carefully unscrew the screw from the mount. If the saddle has the adjustable System IV, you need to turn the adjuster out a 1/2 inch, then hold the mount with hex nut wrench or pliers while turning with the adjuster tool to break the locktight. Be careful not to damage the threads on the adjuster mount and do not lose any of the washers! (Please note that the washers on some of the saddles are beveled and so the beveled side must be against the cone part of the saddles insert-mount). For the rear of the saddle, you must take great care to find the hole in the backer layer to unscrew the panel. You must slide your panel forward and back until you find the hole that your adjuster tool will fit into. If you do not do this carefully and very gently, you will break or crack your backer layer and will have a bigger problem than misadjusted panels. After your panels are loose, add a few drops of "Loctite Red ® " (located at any auto department; it bonds metal to metal). Then screw the panel back on with all washers in place, starting with the rear panels. Tighten firmly, as if you were to putting a lid on a jar to put back in your refrigerator, but not as tight as you would if you were shipping the jar. Once done, back the screw out one revolution for System I, II, III, the license and System VI. For the System V and VII, back the screw out ¾ of a revolution. Then put the panel on the front mounts, adding a few drops of "Loctite Red ®." Allow the glue to set for the time specified on the Loctite directions. For any other concerns please call and I will be happy to assist or direct you to those saddle makers that can repair the flexible panel system saddles.

5) Place your hand on the underside of the panel over the area where the panel is mounted to the tree, push with your fingers and palm of your hand. You SHOULD NOT feel any lump or bulge. If you do, do not ride your saddle and contact the nearest repair center.

6) The mountings on the saddles are steel; on the advanced systems - hardened steel; In both cases you need to keep them rust free so use WD-40 as a solvent very sparingly and only for this purpose. You also will need to need to oil your mounts and washers, (the washers that slide and work against the Delrin panels need to be lubricated). Use (3 in one Household oil). As a second option, you can also use white lithium grease sold in spray cans with a straw, but you will need to use this heavily. Drip this well into and around the mounts located directly under the saddle tree and above the topside of the panel. Do this monthly.

7) If your saddle has been in a wreck, and you hear clicking and cracking, your Delrin panels may be cracked or the rivets used in the building process of progressive loading on System II, III, V, VI and VII may be broken. Again, contact your dealer for the nearest service representative.

8) As time passes and your saddle becomes very used and well-ridden you may hear a clicking from under the mounts. This sound may be the mount and washer assembly. The clicking is that "joint" catching on the washers. The washers may be dirty or rusty. If this is the case all you can use WD-40 to remove the rust, But then OIL with (3 in one Household oil). If you can still hear the clicking and you have put on between 7 and 13,000 miles or for the advanced systems double that amount, you may find that your mounts are worn and may need replacing. If this is the case, the "rockers" themselves may need replacing. Contact your dealer for the nearest service representative. For a video of a real life safety check click Here

How do I use the adjustable Pro-System-IV? This could be regarded as a high-tech breakthrough in flexible panel systems. All of the saddles with the exception of the UK series, will offer this system as standard. This system allows for the adjustment in distance of the panel away from the saddle tree of up to one inch. This allows the user to optimally balance the saddle, for the rider and for the horse with truly unusual conformation challenges, such as one shoulder significantly larger than the other, or a rump-high horse. This adjustment can be made easily and quickly with the use of an Allen wrench "adjuster tool" (included). To adjust, insert the adjuster tool in the small slot on the underside of the panel, located under the front mount. Wiggle it around gently - until you find the "sweet spot," then turn the handle of your adjuster tool and customize your saddle’s height. (Note: This feature is only on the front mounts. Do not even think about adjusting the rear of the saddle.)  Click here for photo's

Why have I not heard about lubricating these panel saddles before? That is a darn good question! If you think about this, any moving part needs lubrication. Take your car’s engine for example; it will not last long if you do not change or add oil. The philosophy of not telling customers the whole truth is exactly what many manufacturers are counting on, to make even more money off of you! The repair and the saddle pad business is BIG. It was not until 2002 that we learned of this, and, like many of you, we learned the hard way. It is so refreshing to do business with manufacturers and repair persons who are up front and honest about their products and how to maintain them. No matter what saddle you have, if is has a moving part, keep it lubricated and your saddle investment will last a very long time.

Why does my saddle "pad" (ie. blanket / booties / easy pad / saddle sox / riding cloth / numnah) have more hair and dirt on both the front and rear ends? Good question and I get this one a lot. Under the flexible panel saddle your horse can move more. More movement means that the panels are working and the pad is doing its job. Do you know the song "twist and shout"? Well, you try doing just that. Stand up and start swinging and twisting your body. Now think about strapping two pieces of 2 x 4 to your back, one on each side of your spine. Can you "twist and shout" now? No, of course not. Now, go back to before our imaginary boards, to that twisting you were doing. Put your hand in the center of your back (about the area of your middle waist) and twist. Notice that the area does not move but acts as a pivot for the upper and lower portion of your back so that you can "twist and shout". Your horse’s back works the same way. With the flexible system, he will be able to bend and flex in both directions and the farther out you move to either end the greater the swing. This extra movement releases more dirt and hair that collects on your pad so take care to launder it. For if you do not, it will dry hard and stiff and may cause abrasions on your horse’s back. Maintain your saddle pads, and carrying an extra pad is a great idea, especially in the spring and fall when your horse is shedding.

My leg is getting pinched under the leathers, biothane or leather. Why? This is caused primarily by the rider not carrying enough weight in the stirrup and/or too much leg movement, (your leg could be getting tired). Wearing half or full chaps, full britches with leather or suede leggings, wearing full-length boots, or covering that biothane or leather strap with the Merino lambs wool leg comforters as shown in the "treasures" part of our website will solve the problem.

Why is my saddle slipping? Saddles can slip in two directions, side to side and forward and back. To figure out why your saddle is slipping answer the following questions:

How do I make a pattern for a saddle sox or saddle pad? Cut a solid sheet of paper (the back of gift wrapping paper works great) the length of the panel or skirt. Set the saddle on a stand and have a helper lift up the saddle so you can slide the paper under the panel or skirt (we only need one side, so trace only one side). We also recommend that you use a blanket or pad under the paper (over the stand) making tracing easier. Then use a fine-tip "Sharpie ®"- type marker and trace the outline exactly. We will allow for seam allowances and movement room. Cut out the pattern and fit it to the panel or skirt to check fit. You MUST also locate both panel-mounting pedestals on the pattern and mark with an X; also write the saddle’s serial number and seat size on the pattern, along with your name, before sending it to us. How to trace a western saddle: Trace the skirt, lifting up drop yoke rigging. Then drop the rigging and trace around that, including the "D" ring, but stopping there. The area that will give you the most difficulty is tracing down the center of the saddle. Do your best, you will have to guess how the skirt panel flows (the center does not fit into a pocket like the back and front, so DON’T let your guess stress you out). This is your template and your saddle sox will be made exactly the way you submit your pattern. How to trace an English or endurance saddle: Trace the panel, lifting up the flap. Then drop the flap and trace around that. The area that will give you the most difficulty is tracing down the center of the saddle. Do your best; you will have to guess how the panel flows (the center does not fit into a pocket like the back and front, so DON’T let your guess stress you out). This is your template and your saddle sox will be made exactly as you submit your pattern.

PERSON RELATED Q's:

Cathy, what issues have you experienced horse camping? Golly, that is a loaded question with a huge answer.  And it depends on what you mean by “issues.”  First. let me make clear that when I mention trail riding, I mean that we are out or gone for 3 to 10 + days and have to make do.  So with that said, here are the areas I address:

People:  We all have been bucked off or fallen off of horses, everyone has had bee stings, Kelly had a bicycle accident that required stitches, Sonia broke some teeth, Don fractured his finger, and I fractured five ribs, my arm and a bone in my foot.  We always continued with our plans and took the injuries all in stride.  Whether you keep going or abort the trip depends, of course, on how badly the person in your party is injured and how he or she feels about continuing.

Equipment:  Once I ripped the fuel tank off the truck as I was turning around in the pitch dark in a horse pasture with a stump that the owner forgot to tell me about.  That mishap also blew a tire that was mounted on a split rim—a nasty mess.  Twice the bearings on the engine fan went out, sending the fan blades through the radiator 2 hours from home.  Once the transmission on the truck went out 11 hours from home.  And, of course we’ve had numerous flat tires on trailers and vehicles.  Once we had five flats in 4 weeks, two of which happened within 6 miles of each other!  (Now, I change all the tires every 2 years—regardless of wear.  On one trip we lost a complete trailer wheel, including the rim, 3 hours from home.  On another the RV windshield blew in 4 hours from home, but we continued on slowly.  We backed into a tree and smashed the ladder of the RV, drove up onto a cement barrier, and smashed the side of the RV, hooked a picnic table and bent the bumper of the RV.  Obviously visibility is an issue when driving these rigs.  Over time the RV frame cracked because it was not strong enough to handle the load it. was pulling.  On one trip, the RV awning blew open and part of it ripped off going 65 miles per hour down the freeway.  Wheel bearings have gone out on the horse trailer – that only will happen once – we grease and repack yearly.  Brakes failed on the RV because it had almost no break fluid.  Many times belts have broken and engines overheated, so now we always check the oil, transmission fluid, and brake fluid, belts, and water levels before each trip.  Again, preventive measures make all the difference.

All to well, as we all know, Murphy’s Law comes into play—anything that can go wrong, will go wrong.  So, anyway, that is roughly what has happened so far and you can be sure that more is still to come!  I believe that shit is going to happen whether you stay at home or venture out on the trail.  I also believe in living life and not letting it go by.  So I say to you … buck up and go for it, ’cause if you don’t you’ll never know what you’re missing.  Embrace every moment.  Live life as if today were your last.

Who else has used these panel saddles? What do they have to say? (click)

Tip: For those of you who have natural dirt or sandy/clay arena flooring you may notice that this gets dusty when riding. You may already be spraying it down with water, but it still remains dusty and may even get dustier. Here is the fix. If you wet down your arena by spraying, add sodium chloride (salt) to the water. Or better yet, go to the store and get water softener granules and sprinkle this over your entire arena. The first time will take several bags, but after this is it just simple maintenance. Just a sprinkle here and there and ta-da, no more dust!

Tip: If you have your horses picketed for several days in the same area and find that the ground is becoming nasty from the manure/urine and is attracting flies. Using a coffee cup, sprinkle a little barn lime over those spots. The lime dries up the area making a nice solid surface repelling flies. Note; on barn lime, a small bag (the size of a 10-pound flour bag) will weigh 50 lbs.!

Saddle Fitting? Important message to all saddle fitters, massage therapists and veterinarians. Do not just set the saddle on the horses back to determine fit, but cinch or girth it down tightly (remember to set the saddle bare on the horses back). Then check the saddle fit. Many saddles now use Delrin panels, gel or air, etc., that require a downward force to achieve fit which can only be done by having someone site in the saddle. You can then re-check fit by sliding your hand under the saddle, feeling just what the horse feels. You can then finalize your initial fitting with the rider in the saddle and the horse in motion. If the saddle requires a corrective pad in order to achieve a good fit, remember to shim away from pressure and to check the horse’s conformation prior to any saddle fitting. You do this by squaring the horse up and looking over his rump, viewing his shoulder and wither area.

Why should I purchase a flexible panel saddle? Looking back through the years of buying, selling, and trading countless new and used saddles, searching for the perfect saddle at a bargain price, being never quite happy, was a yearly event that passed like the seasons. When first Delrin Panel System II saddle came into my life that trend was broken forever! The reality of the situation is that a top quality Delrin panel saddle will cost a couple of thousand dollars. I suggest setting your sights high and purchasing the most technologically advanced equipment on the market today. Take out an installment loan if you need to, but think big and bite your lip. A year or two down the line you will be glad you made the investment, because if you don’t, you undoubtedly will want to upgrade your saddle. You will probably spend more money in the long run than if you bought an advanced flexible panel saddle in the first place. The results you and your horse will enjoy with the advanced panel system will forever be worth the initial expense.

What saddles do you personally ride? Ok here goes: We have a 14" seat Ortho-Flex Paso Pleasure –from the original Ortho-Flex company with a Don West saddle tree and System 2 panels. A 15" Ortho-Flex Express Lite from the original Ortho-Flex Company with System 2 panels. A 14" Traditional from the original Ortho-Flex saddle company with an Eddie Steel saddle tree and System 7 panels. Two – 13" Trail Partner saddles from the original Ortho-Flex saddle company with System 2 panels. A 16.5-inch original Ortho-flex Stitchdown saddle with System 2 panels. 16" original Ortho-Flex Patriot Officer Saddle with System 5 panels. A 17.5 inch American-Flex Stitchdown with adjustable System 4 and 5 panels. A 17.5 HVF American-Flex Special with adjustable System 4 and 5 panels. A 16" original Ortho-Flex Caliente with adjustable System 4 and 7 System panels. A 16" Soft-Seat Traditional Ortho-Flex saddle – from the original company with the System 9 panels. Then, lastly two saddles (a soft-seat traditional and a regular traditional with the Eddie Steel tree) from the original Ortho-Flex Saddle company that cannot be used until they have been converted to the System 10 panels. My personal comment on all of this is, that IF your saddle fits correctly and your horse can move freely and is not in pain by way of PHYSICAL PALPATION, then you have no reason to change your current saddle. "If it ain’t broke then don’t fix it," and do your yearly equipment check on all your tack.

What suggestions do you have on what to carry with you in your saddle bags? Lip balm; cell phone; a global positioning system (GPS) unit; tissues; a knife or Leather man ®; a hoof pick; a flashlight (preferably a head unit); fly masks for both horse and rider; an Easy boot or similar device, insect repellent that can be used on both horse and rider, extra reins, leather strips, snaps and Chicago screws: a lead rope or other rope, a camera and or binoculars; flora and fauna reference guides; a compass; blood stop powder, gentian violet, Vet wrap ®, nonstick bandages; waterproof tape; medications for horse or rider (e.g. aspirin, epinephrine, antihistamine); a water bottle (preferable a filtered water bottle); a bandana, a pen and paper, sunglasses, sun screen, lolli pop’s-or hard candy; granola bars; map of area; wire cutters and /or small hoof nippers; a flask of 151 - (for starting fires, disinfecting and easing rider pain,) matches; a whistle; money; rain coat and a weapon or other deterrent - if riding in the wilderness.

Would you run in wooden shoes? That is exactly what we are asking our horses to do if they are not saddled in a flexible system saddle. Unless you are riding a flexible system saddle your horse bears more than the responsibility of the ride, he bears the concussion and shearing forces of a solid tree against its moving shoulders. The system has thin flexible panels attached to a solid wooden tree by mountings, which provide a ball and socket effect, allowing the skirts to flex at different angles from front to rear. When the horse turns, the panel flexes in an arc on the side that the horse flexes and straightens on the opposite side, moving with the horse and allowing freedom of movement. The best advice I can give you is to put you hand under the saddle-any saddle either on a solid saddle stand or on a horse’s back. Put your hand under the front, the center and the back of the saddle. Have someone sit in that saddle, lean forward and back and bounce up and down. What you feel on your hand IS what your horse feels. FACT, FACT, FACT!

Why are there not more dealers selling these advanced panel saddles? The bottom line is that it takes about 2 hours to properly educate the customer on saddle fit, horse palpation, and the function of the saddle. There are not many stores, web sites or catalogs willing to devote that much time or space to do this. Also these businesses know that in a person’s lifetime they will buy up to 5-7 saddles because the horse changes shape or the customer gets a different horse and that the rigid tree saddle will need to be changed. If the business sold the advanced panel system saddle in the first place, their is repeat business would be lost. It all boils down to money and that is what really bothers me.

Will Delrin panels wear out? Yes, All Delrin used in the panels of all brands of saddles will wear out in time, just like tires on your car. The time depends on several factors-the rider’s weight, the maintenance and upkeep of the Delrin panels and how much you ride. With proper maintenance and using rider weight of 160 lbs., you can expect 25,000 plus miles from the improved System 9 and 10 panels. This is because the technology of this panels system has progressed with the layering of materials. This progressive loading offers a longer and more useful