HILL VIEW FARMS® LLC
"Proven Products for Horse and Rider"

Safety Check
 For all Flexible Panel Saddles
By: Cathy Sheets Tauer - B.S. Animal Science, E.S.M.T

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When looking to purchase a flexible panel saddle there may be many reasons why the previous owner is selling it, or as a yearly maintenance check you must perform a safety check.   One reason for a saddle being sold is that it maybe is not performing correctly.  If the saddle was in a wreck or the saddle is well used, you may have either a cracked panel, broken rivets, worn mounts or  the Delrin itself is worn down and is not able to slide or move. If this is the case, you may be looking at $100 to $800.00 plus dollars to get the panels replaced. 

CLICK  FOR REPAIR CENTERS    What kind of saddle can be converted - To have the panels put on?  Click here.

For a video of a real life safety check click Here

So how can you tell?  Below are panels from an Ortho-Flex System 2 saddle and panels from the System 5 American Saddles - American-flex saddle.  The Ortho-Flex saddle belonged to trainer and competitive rider who put many hard years and hours in the saddle.  This customer did not purchase the saddle from Hill View Farms but came to us for help after he was experiencing trouble with his saddle. He said that the saddle began to shift to one side and did not move as it should.  After performing  a safety check, which the saddle did not pass, we removed the panels and replaced them. Below is what  worn Delrin panels and mounts will look like. (this customer NEVER performed any maintenance on his saddle - ever!).  The other photo is from another rider who bought the saddle used and her horse became sore in the loins.

 I cut away the encased covering and removed the masking tape that Ortho-flex initially had used to hold the layers of delrin in place when riveting the panels together.  These panels are a system 2,  the delrin was hand cut and assembled and the mounts where cross threaded and worn as well, so they too had to be removed from the tree and replaced.    If you look you can see that the panel can not move freely in the slot, as the mount assembly unit was worn down into the delrin, locking the panel in place, effectively making it a system 1, also the screw assembly had worn down the inside edge of the slot causing the panel to list crooked on the saddle tree, also wearing away the delrin.

 System 2 panels with worn mounts and Delrin. But this effects all systems that do not have a slide plate.

 

BELOW: Notice the close up of the below panel and how the mount assembly wore down and became level with the first tier. 

 

RIGHT:  This worn area now has become a problem as shown on the photo below.  The worn down panel has now allowed the mount to come through the panel creating a pressure spot and becoming the source for pressure points.  

 

LEFT: The photo left, is how the panel should look with pressure applied,  there IS NO bump.  For the mount is properly functioning with the delrin material.  Remember if you PROPERLY maintain your saddle this should never occur.

               
 

BELOW: The System IX (9) that has have the protective metal wear plate for the delrin, but when improperly put on this becomes a quality control issue and as you can see,  the thin metal plate snapped and buckled.

  

THE MOUNTS

Below are up-close visuals of both: the worn "rocker" mount and then of a new mount.  See the difference. 

OLD 45° MOUNT            NEW 45° MOUNT  System 7, 7E and 9 mount

     A new SYSTEM X MOUNT:  The washer has a radius to match the insert allowing a ball and socket performance.  The slide plate also is 3 times thicker than other plates delivering tolerance with outstanding ware,  combined with the proper mounting & quality control inspections, ensure life-long performance.

RIVETS

In the below photo is a panel that has been un-covered that has a broken rear rivet.  The aluminum pop rivets that are used by saddle makers in assembling the panels are cheep, fast and easy to use.  Also Aluminum has very poor work-hardening fatigue - which means that under flexing - it will not take much to break them.  Also when rivets are machined a machine can not know if the rivet is truly tight as compared to the assembler hand pounding them.  Yes this assembly process is more time extensive and many manufactures don't want to bother with this and so they will offer just a single layer of delrin (one quarter the price) or machined rivets (fast).     Therefore the likelihood of the hand pounded copper or Stainless/nickel steel rivets giving way is practically nonexistent.   When you have popped rivits as you can see in the photo below, that you now have compromised the progressive loading that allows for weight distribution,  is no longer able to function correctly.

Aluminum rivets pop due to fatigue - System 7
A system 2 broken copper rivet that was only reveiled when we took apart the panel, also the slot was wallowed out, typical with unprotected slide openings.

HOW DO YOU KNOW IF YOU HAVE POPPED RIVETS?

It is very hard to know if your panel has popped rivets since is it either encased in a plastic zippered encasement or encased within a leather skirt of a saddle.  So you must look carefully.  Some outside signs of this are roaning hair, a saddle that lists to one side or is bottoming out.  Below is a photo of wear to the underside of a saddle that the panel was flexed up it bottomed out on the underside of the saddle's tree.  You can see the wear through the leather and into the tree.  
This may not be from just a popped rivet but could also be from;  the zipper on the encasement could hitting the underside of the saddle or the saddle tree is too straight for a horse who's back is dippy,  or a sway back horse or one that has one hip higher than the other that requires shims to achieve a proper fit to prevent panel being flexed to far up and hitting and or bottoming out on the bottom side of the saddle tree.  It could be from, a crooked saddle tree, panels that are mounted crooked,  or inserts that are not properly placed or at the correct depth.  To know the saddle has a broken rivet look at the encasement and see if you notice a bulge or if the rivet itself that has broken through the encasement as shown below right. For panels that are  encased within leather skirts you can use an awl or ice pick to get under the leather - through the slot to see if you can move around the delrin layers.  But my advice is that you should call a qualified repair shop, so they can properly remove and inspect your panels and then re-set them so that they function properly.  

                                                               
                     The wear to the under side of a saddle tree                                          A popped rivet that came through the encasement.

How do I perform a safety check on flexible panel system saddles? How often should I do this? You should perform a safety check twice a year. In the following procedures, you will be comparing one side of the saddle with the other. Turn your saddle over on its back. Take off any pads that the saddle may have on it.

1) First look at your panel spacing: If you have a System I, II, III, V, VI or the license- there should be at least 1 to 2 inches of space between the front panels (under the gullet area). If you have system VII, IX or X this spacing can be as little as a-half inch.

2) Next wiggle the panel on the front mounting, comparing the two sides. Do they wiggle the same? They should. Try pulling the panels away from the saddle. Do both move out the same? They should. During either of these tests, are the panels excessively loose? They should not be. Do the panels move freely during this procedure? They should.

3) Next check the back mounting pedestals. Do the same tests as for the front panels, but the rear panels should move more freely than the front, if your saddle has the System II, III, V, VI, or VII. The panel has a little slot that allows for this extra freedom. Is your panel moving freely in the slot? Can you pull on the center of your panel and see the panel sliding on the rear mount? The panels should slide freely.

4) If the panels are not adjusted correctly, that is, if one side is freer than the other, you will need to have your panels reset. I strongly (!!!!!!!) recommend that you send your saddle in to the nearest service representative to do this. However, if you must do it yourself, here is how you go about it. If you decide to "fix" your saddle yourself and mess it up, you may void your warranty. With that in mind, for all saddles except the System 4, 5, 7 9 and 10 panels, get a large Phillips screwdriver. For the System 4, 5, 7, 9 and 10  use the adjuster tool or an Allen key. Find the hole in the panel where the pedestal is located. Starting with the front mounts, carefully unscrew the screw from the mount. If the saddle has the adjustable System IV, you need to turn the adjuster out a 1/2 inch, then hold the mount with hex nut wrench or pliers while turning with the adjuster tool to break the locktight. Be careful not to damage the threads on the adjuster mount and do not lose any of the washers! (Please note that the washers on some of the saddles are beveled and so the beveled side must be against the cone part of the saddles insert-mount). For the rear of the saddle, you must take great care to find the hole in the backer layer to unscrew the panel. You must slide your panel forward and back until you find the hole that your adjuster tool will fit into. If you do not do this carefully and very gently, you will break or crack your backer layer and will have a bigger problem than misadjusted panels. After your panels are loose, add a few drops of "Loctite Red ® " (located at any auto department; it bonds metal to metal). Then screw the panel back on with all washers in place, starting with the rear panels. Tighten firmly, as if you were to putting a lid on a jar to put back in your refrigerator, but not as tight as you would if you were shipping the jar. Once done, back the screw out one revolution for System I, II, III, the license and System VI. For the System V and VII, back the screw out ¾ of a revolution. Then put the panel on the front mounts, adding a few drops of "Loctite Red ®." Allow the glue to set for the time specified on the Loctite directions. For any other concerns please call and I will be happy to assist or direct you to those saddle makers that can repair the flexible panel system saddles.

5) Place your hand on the underside of the panel over the area where the panel is mounted to the tree, push with your fingers and palm of your hand. You SHOULD NOT feel any lump or bulge. If you do, do not ride your saddle and contact the nearest repair center.

6) The mountings on the saddles are steel; on the advanced systems - hardened steel; In both cases you need to keep them rust free so use WD-40 as a solvent very sparingly and only for this purpose. You also will need to need to oil your mounts and washers, (the washers that slide and work against the Delrin panels need to be lubricated). Use (3 in one Household oil). As a second option, you can also use white lithium grease sold in spray cans with a straw, but you will need to use this heavily. Drip this well into and around the mounts located directly under the saddle tree and above the topside of the panel. Do this monthly.

7) If your saddle has been in a wreck, and you hear clicking and cracking, your Delrin panels may be cracked or the rivets used in the building process of progressive loading on System II, III, V, VI and VII may be broken. Again, contact your dealer for the nearest service representative.

8) As time passes and your saddle becomes very used and well-ridden you may hear a clicking from under the mounts. This sound may be the mount and washer assembly. The clicking is that "joint" catching on the washers. The washers may be dirty or rusty. If this is the case all you can use WD-40 to remove the rust, But then OIL with (3 in one Household oil). If you can still hear the clicking and you have put on between 7 and 13,000 miles or for the advanced systems double that amount, you may find that your mounts are worn and may need replacing. If this is the case, the "rockers" themselves may need replacing. Contact your dealer for the nearest service representative. For a video of a real life safety check click Here  

Can I do repairs myself?  Yes, but if the saddle is under warrantee this is not recommended as it may void your saddles warrantee.  How ever if you have a saddle that is out of warrantee and you would like to upgrade your older system to the system X you can order the panels including hardware and do it your self. (Order Form).  Call - do not email, for details.  No Returns accepted on panels and make note that the panels will only perform as well as the tree that they are mounted to.

Qualified repair centers.
If you have a saddle that does not pass our safety check, PLEASE do not try to repair the saddle yourself, but contact
 

For conversions or upgrades to the SYSTEM X you must have the dimensions shown below on your saddle.

  
(For English saddles  the measurement from the front edge of the bar back needs to be 3 inches)

PLEASE NOTE that the System X was developed  along with the SADDLE TREE.  As you not have the SYSTEM X tree, the panels will only function to the best of their ability on the saddle tree to which they are placed.  Many trees are not faired, do not have the rocker needed or the bars are too straight or too thick.  The Saddle TREE will ultimately effect the end performance of the System X panels.  However these panels ARE far superior to any of the preexisting panels.

 

 

 

 

 Hill View Farms® LLC  CAN NOT guarantee the panels function on any conversion, upgrade or rebuild saddle.

 

 

Here is another example of a saddle who's tree was not correctly made for system 9 panels.  The fender strap and the bar of the saddle put excessive pressure on the mules back causing a dry spot.  We has to put washer spacers in both the front and back under the insert itself to move away the panel from the tree so that the panel could move freely.  Now the mule has an even sweat pattern. (We also had to re-set the front insert, to properly space the front mounts as they were improperly set -too wide, locking in the mules shoulders)

Now we have a complete sweat pattern and happy mule owners.

Not only can you have bottoming out in the center bar section but also more commonly at the rear of the saddle when the rear of the tree is not designed for the panel to function.  You can see this by the compression marks on the underside of the saddle tree from the top of the panel.  We will need to both grind down the tree and also put spacers in.  Again another example of a tree that is NOT designed properly for panel function.

This is how a panel saddle where the tree is not properly designed will effect the horse. 

You will get dry spots, hair rubbing off, etc.  Your horse may not be sore-sore but will eventually have issues. 

----- Original Message ----- From: DIANA To: Hill View Farms Sent: Monday, August 04, 2008 7:46 PM Subject: Photos of Colina and Saddle  


Hill View Farms wrote:  Take off the pad and put the saddle on her back.  then slide you and under the panel and feel for her spot and then flip your finder over to see where is lines up on the panel.   

 From DIANA:  OK...I think I know what you're saying......you want me to take the sox off, first, and put the saddle back on her without them?
I've looked on the undersides of the sox, but I don't see anything there. I ran my hand over the surface of the underside of the panels, where I think they may be rubbing...still nothing. I don't understand it.

 Do not rub just pin point the bald spot with a location on the panel is what i would like you to do.  is the spot on the slit of the encased panel?

Let me know what you find.  also is there any pad wearing?  Ruffled hair?  

I don't see any part of the pad wearing...it's brand new, but, I do see some of the wool shedding, so I'll brush it off, just in case that may be the problem. I'll wash it again. When I first put the wool sox on Colina, her sweat pattern was very even..no dry spots, so I thought we solved the problem. Now, it seems the same pattern is forming again, as it did when I was using the synthetic sox.

HUMMM The hair on those spots seems to be rubbing and feels coarse, as if it's breaking; then, when I brush it, or use my nail to gently scratch at it, the hair comes out. And I've noticed that there is a sort of bump, or raised area under the hair on her withers.  

 See where this lines up on the panel.  Take a photo of the spot on the panel use chalk or corn starch to make the spot visible and take a photo for me.  Oh and no they do not make a thicker saddle sox.  That should not be the problem.   

 OK. 

Also there should not be any pressure points as that has been eliminated with the panels.

Well, that's what I thought.

Also you ride her during the winter too.  so it seems to be a heat related issue.  Also do you have your saddle bags on?  check too if these are rubbing.

 No, I don't use the saddle bag I bought from you. I only use a small bag that suspends from a hook, to carry my water bottle; it sits on the side of the saddle, up front. It doesn't touch Colina at all.

 Looking forward to the photo's.

 I'll take them later, when I bring the horses in for the night <sigh>. I hate it when things like this happen, and I don't know what to do about it.  :-(

D.

I totally feel your frustration.  And I’m not there to help right away.... and cannot see what you see. Get back to me on what you see and then I can confirm my hypotheses.

:-)

 ----- Original Message ----- From:  DIANA To: Hill View Farms

Hill View Farms wrote:  YOU ARE WONDERFUL at the photos'   ok now look on the top of the panel above where the white spots are and see if the panel is hitting the tree.  You can look at the under side of the tree and see if the panel is bottoming out.  Also the top side of the pad.  see if the codura is showing ware.

 So, what do you think? Does it look like it's bridging to you? DIANA

No the saddle is not bridging nor are you getting the pressure points from the mountings.  I think you are bottoming out. 

SADDLE BEING SENT IN FOR CORRECTIONS:   THANK YOU DIANA FOR THE PHOTO'S!!

 

Hill View Farms® LLC  CAN NOT guarantee the panels function on any conversion, upgrade or rebuild saddle.

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